Print Edition

Share it

Add to: JBookmarks Add to: Facebook Add to: Windows Live Add to:  FAV!T Social Bookmarking Add to: Digg Add to: Del.icoi.us Add to: Slashdot Add to: Yahoo Add to: Diigo Add to: Newsvine Add to: Google
Travel
A Mexican match to remember PDF Print
Written by Ralph Marnham   

When Ralph Marnham organised a football match between two rival schools, he thought that it would be a straightforward affair. Little did he know what lay in store for him...

I was teaching in a small village called Santa Maria Pipioltepec. The local Mexicans there are a mixture of Mazuan Indians and other ethnic minorities, living in traditional villages and farms around the pine-clad hillsides of Valle de Bravo, about three hours away from Mexico City. What had struck me about the school was the lack of sport offered, despite the children playing football every break time in the school playground. They seemed to know most of the English football team, especially David Beckham. Their idol, however, was the captain of the national team, Rafael Marquez.
After having taught in the school for three months I decided to organise a football match with another rival local school, San Fransisco. Henry, a friend of mine, was a teacher there. Although my passion for the game had never translated itself onto the pitch (I was a left back in a very average team), I did rather rate myself as a coach, especially as Henry’s knowledge of football was pretty poor, often confusing it with its American counterpart. We had decided that the age group for the match should be between ten- and twelve-year-olds and the following day I started to hold the trials. When I had announced to the classes involved that we were going to play a match against San Fransisco, they had all seemed to be extremely excited about the idea. However, when I got to the school football pitch that afternoon, I was still astonished to see how many children had turned up for the trials. Apparently, word had gone round the playground that this was happening and nearly everyone had come along to ask me if they could be part of the team. I reiterated the point that they had to be between the ages of ten and twelve to participate. This still did not seem to deter a certain Jose, who had a full on moustache, in trying to persuade me that he was in fact twelve. Luckily, I remembered that he was actually seventeen. It was with great difficulty that I managed to sift through the throng of eager faces. After half an hour, we started the trials.
Although I thought that I had come reasonably well-prepared with various exercises scribbled down on my pad of paper, I was soon proved very wrong. Firstly, I asked the group to split themselves into four different categories: goalkeepers, defenders, midfielders and strikers. To my despair, I ended up with five goalkeepers, six defenders, ten midfielders and twenty-nine strikers.
As I started the first exercise, it became clear that most of the boys wanted to chase the football around the pitch and score goals. After a few stern words, I recommenced the training drills. During the exercises, it slowly dawned on me that I was going to have to exclude the majority of the children. Realistically, I could only have a squad of twenty, meaning that thirty would miss out. At the end, I organised a big football match with everyone included. A few of the kids started to stand out. There was Juan, a big twelve-year-old, who, although sometimes over the top, put in a great number of sturdy challenges. Pedro was the playmaker of the team, and, although the youngest and slight of build, proved to be very adept at finding his team mates with pinpoint passes on the bumpy surface. The two strikers who shone the most were Emiliano and Rogerio. I returned home that afternoon full of hope and anticipation for the coming match. I turned up the next day with a heavy heart, knowing that at lunch time I had to put up my squad list. I spent most of my lunch breaking up fights and trying to comfort disappointed children. Even my fellow teachers seemed to want to get involved in the debate. In the end though, the whole school seemed to get behind the team and even came to watch us in our training sessions. There seemed to be genuine hope and excitement in the air. It was at this point that I started to get worried. What if my team lost? This was not helped by the fact that Henry kept on telling me about his success as a coach.
The night before the game I could hardly sleep. Henry and I had agreed to play at our school as our pitch was far better than theirs. When I arrived, my anxiety heightened as I saw that the whole school, pupils and staff, as well as the whole village had turned up. Henry turned up with a team of giants. It seemed that the twelve-year-olds from San Fransisco were twice as tall and I started to panic. After a lot of argument we decided to referee one half each. We tossed a coin and Henry took the first half. Within two minutes, Juan, my star centre half had given away a penalty with a desperate challenge. It was only after a lot of shouting and complaining from the touchline that I persuaded Henry not to send him off. The first half turned out to be a disaster with Henry’s team easily winning the physical contest. At half time, they were four-nil up. Henry had a wide grin on his face, with the teachers from his school cheering him on. I turned round apprehensively towards the headmaster of Santa Maria. He scowled at me and turned away.
The second half kicked off with me as the referee. I had given my team a passionate talk at half time and brought on five eager players, desperate to prove to me that they should have been included in the original team. The changes seemed to pay off. Pedro played a looping pass to Emiliano, and after a one-two with Rogerio, Emiliano slammed the ball into the top right corner of the goal. My team went wild and we seemed to have regained the diminishing interest of the crowd. A quick goal followed from Rogerio, who was excelling in his role as a striker. Juan made another dubious tackle and I decided to wave away Henry‘s screams from the touchline. Rogerio then scored again. Four-three! I started to hope that maybe we would win. However, it was not to be. After a barrage of attacks from Santa Maria, San Fransisco scored in the last minute from a devastating counter-attack. The game finished amicably with both sides sporting huge grins on their faces. My teachers came up to offer their commiserations. All in all, I felt immensely proud with the children who had participated and with those who had missed out, they had been our most ferocious supporters. An annual fixture between the two schools has been held ever since.

 
Living the Moroccan dream PDF Print
Written by Callum Swift   

I sat gazing out the window of a Boeing 737 at the vast and juxtaposed land below me. The evening sun brushes the snow-tipped Atlas Mountains, casting shadows over circles of irrigated green dotted amidst an endless expanse of harsh scrub.  Four hours ago I was fighting the familiar bitter wind on O’Connell Street, attracting a few strange glances due to the fact that I’m trailing what is best described as a body bag behind me.  With three boards, a tent, a wetsuit and a few clothes I’m heading to the small fishing town of Taghazout in central Morocco, with a continuous loop of iconic surf footage from the areas famous right hand point breaks filling my mind.
I have done plenty of road trips before, both for surfing and mountain biking: living in a van for months on end, surviving on pasta, showering in ponds and driven by a love for the sport that can keep you searching for new places your whole life, desperate for an uncrowded wave or fresh track to satisfy the yearning. Usually, money and time only allow us to venture to the obvious and easily accessible places in Europe, but with the reach of low cost airlines ever expanding, places like Morocco are becoming a cheap and exciting option, accessible for as little as a €100, four-hour return flight direct from Dublin. 
All Mike and I had booked was a return flight to Agadir, and with little more of a plan than to rent a car and find some waves we landed with great anticipation.  After a bit of bartering with a car hire company and some creative packing we had the boards and luggage crammed into our little two- door and were driving into the bustling streets of Morocco.  With neither of us thinking to bring a map and a large lack of signposts, we drove through the chaotic city blind and loving every moment.  Every sense is affronted, the stifling air wafting the potent scents of the city through the car, horns blasting aimlessly and the drone of the evening prayers echoing across the streets from the mosque.  
The Moroccan roads are crazy: red means go, right of way seems optional and motorways are shared with donkeys and camels.  At one stage we were stuck behind a kid on a pedal pop (a 50cc motorbike/bicycle), who was trucking along the middle of the motorway whilst texting away on his mobile, his helmet hanging from his bars! 
Somehow we found our way to Taghazout, and when a local told us his friend had a room we could stay in for 50 dirham (about 4 euro) a night we gladly put our tents back in the car and followed him up the dark and shambolic streets, dodging goats and kids on motorbikes until we got to the house.  Whilst the outside, like all the surrounding buildings, was bare concrete and crumbling brick, the inside was plastered a dark red and orange and beautifully decorated with the owner Hassan’s own artwork.  On top of the fire sat a conical clay pot, a simmering stew of chicken, vegetables and spices.  These tagines, a Moroccan specialty, became our staple diet while we were there.  Some unfamiliar Reggae was playing out of his speakers and a shisha pipe was bubbling away on the table, the whole house a hazy waft of spices and flavoured tobacco. 
We woke at first light with high expectations. The surf media has descended on Morocco recently and all we could think about were the pictures we had seen in videos and magazines of perfect, reeling point breaks framed on a hazy aquamarine ocean.  The surf forecast looked good, large swells and low winds.  However we were met with grey skies, grey ocean and lumpy, messed up waves.  Not quite what we came here for, but we had a fun session nonetheless, despite paddling out to a  dirty brown estuary no doubt containing most of the town’s sewage.  The next few days were similar, scouring the coast’s many points and beaches for surf, looking at swell charts and wind directions, wondering why the ocean wasn’t playing by the rules and producing what the forecast said it should be.
We decided we wanted to get away from the crowds and surf camps of Taghazout, so we packed our car and headed out.  The road north varies from miles of dead-straight coastal roads to meandering mountain passes.  Goats roam the scrub and climb the almond trees, perching precariously in their thorny branches, searching for the nuts. Lines of washing hang still in the sleepy midday heat and women walk with donkeys for miles along the road.  We stopped on a cliff top overlooking the ocean and I hopped out of the car, toilet roll in hand.  I wandered over to the cliff edge and was astounded by the spectacle before me: line upon line of clean swell, refracting around an outcropping water break and producing a kilometre-long, perfect right.  This is why we came.  We drove down to the harbour at a ridiculous pace, frothing with excitement.  Suits on, sun cream on, drink of water, a quick jump of the harbour wall and we were out the back.  We surfed until our exhausted bodies wouldn’t allow us to continue, practically inhaled dinner and collapsed in our tent, utterly ecstatic.
The rest of the week was incredible, the sun burning though the clouds and turning the ocean a stunning colour, catching the floating Saharan particles to cast a hazy shimmer over the coastline.  When we were too tired to surf we explored the surrounding villages, chatting to gap-toothed old fisherman and eating a ridiculous amount of tagines.
As we sat bobbing in the ocean in our last surf of the trip, watching the spray of the waves catching the dropping sun’s last rays in a beautiful spectrum of colour, we were talking about what we would usually be doing at that time: sitting in the last lecture of the day or battling the traffic on the way back from work, dreaming of this moment.  Why does it have to be a dream? You don’t just have to go somewhere in search of surf to enjoy it, to walk around a bustling market for the first time, to eat new and exiting food and to learn a bit about another culture and language.  You don’t have to prebook every last detail of your trip; in fact, you get the most out of it by doing the exact opposite.  If we had booked in with a surf camp, not only would it have cost triple the amount but I wouldn’t have arrived back in Dublin with Hassan’s tagine pot, a bag full of spices and a recipe for a stunning meal.
But this trip just whet my appetite.Whilst we did our best to explore and immerse ourselves in the place, there is only so much you can accomplish in a week, and that area of Morocco is now fairly well-charted in terms of surf. Twenty years ago the west coast of France still held secret spots, and going to Thailand for the summer was unthinkable, but times change and surfers and travellers are forced to venture into ever further and more inaccessible places for the same buzz of exploration.  New frontiers are opening up: Senegal, Angola, Peru, Costa Rica and India to name just a few.  Who knows what the world will be like in 30 years? But I think it’s safe to say these places won’t stay untapped for long.

 
The green side of tourism PDF Print

Picture yourself in a lush rainforest, away from the stress and strain of modern life. Imagine staring into the empathic eyes of a gorilla. See yourself standing on an unspoilt coastline staring out into the vast sprawling sea. Jennifer Finn introduces us to the most fashionable and in-vogue form of tourism around– Ecotourism

 

The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.” It promotes the idea that travel can be much more meaningful than just sightseeing, taking pictures and buying souvenirs. Ecotourism has created the concept of green travel which allows everyone to enjoy their picturesque surroundings without causing harm to them. Ecotourism is about uniting conservation, communities and sustainable travel. It acts as a stimulus to the host country’s economy whilst also empowering the local working-class people. If you’re looking for more than just a regular vacation, ecotourism can offer you the experience of a lifetime. It encourages travel in an environmentally-friendly manner. It’s more about appreciating the beauty of nature than exploiting it. It’s a mutually beneficial way of travelling in that you enjoy your holiday and in the process you have contributed to the local economy and helped conservationists in their quest to save endangered wildlife and other species.

 

Green travel allows an ecotourist to experience life in unindustrialized surroundings. It’s not about camping in a field in the middle of nowhere; it’s about appreciating all that Mother Nature has to offer. You don’t have to stay in a tent either: you can stay in an eco hotel. One such eco hotel is Hacienda Tres Rios which is located in Mexico. This hotel has five green stars attributable to its environesilkemental awareness. It is an eco-luxury resort situated in the heart of the Riviera Maya. It’s nestled within a nature park for guests to enjoy. The hotel has achieved environmentally sustainable development through the responsible and intelligent use of the world’s natural resources and ecosystems. Apart from encouraging the creation of eco hotels, ecotourism has encouraged a new wave of popularity in skiing, hiking and adventure holidays.

Ecotourism is not just for the wealthy: it’s for everyone, including students. Whilst flying to the United States on a J1 Visa is a popular and exciting way of spending your summer holiday, the United States will still be there when you graduate; sadly some ecotourism destinations and endangered species may not.

BELIZE

The Rainforest offers the most natural escape from busy modern life. Whether you travel to the rainforest of the Amazon or the rainforest of Belize, you are sure to find solace under its vast green canopy. This rainforest canopy nurtures many endangered species of plant and animal life. It is a beautiful classroom for ecotourists to learn about diverse species of flora and fauna. Whilst most popular tourist resorts will always be there, one must savour the experience of the rainforest because someday they may disappear.

 

Costa Rica

 

Costa Rica is considered to be one of the most bio-diverse regions in the world. This label is due to its twenty natural parks, eight biological reserves and countless protected areas that captivate an audience of ecotourism lovers of all nationalities, who come from far and wide to witness these areas. It is home to Tortuguero National Park which is most famous for the sea turtle nesting that takes place there every year. Costa Rica is also home to “Nature Air”, the world’s first carbon neutral airline. Nature Air enhances your travelling experience by providing panoramic window views and pilots who are trained to point out waterfalls, volcanoes and landmarks along the journey.

 

HiMALAYAS

The Himalayas: are sometimes referred to as the “Abode of Snow”. They stretch from Jammu and Kashmir in North India to Arunachal Pradesh in Northeast India. The Himalayas yield great scope for adventure sports such as skiing, mountaineering and trekking. The surrounding land is sprinkled with luxuriant valleys and idyllic lakes. The Himalayan region is also the place where rare medicinal herbs grow. In the Himalayan foothills, the Terai, there are the tropical forests of Sal, Teak and Shisham. This place encapsulates a paradise for orienteers.

 

Ireland

Closer to home, ecotourism is also popular on the Emerald Isle. Irish ecotourism encourages you to take some time out of the pub and to nourish your soul a bit instead.

Gaeltacht areas such as Achill Island off the West Coast, offer tourists a taste of what life was like when everyone still spoke Irish and when you relied a lot more on the land. Home to some of the most breathtaking beaches, towering cliffs and natural land formations, Ireland will certainly not disappoint. Plus you’ll save on airfare!

Kenya

By going on safari in a place like Kenya, you are putting yourself out there and venturing into the wild. You’re allowing yourself to witness lions, tigers, zebra, elephants, leopards and buffaloes in their natural habitat. A safari is also a popular option for bird watchers due to the vast array of bird species to be seen. When returning home from your safari, you are sure to have with you a photo album resembling an issue of National Geographic.

Kilimanjaro

Mount Kilimanjaro: if you’re the adventurer-type, climbing Mount Kili-manjaro could be just the right ecotourism activity for you. The Njari Lodge and Campsite is situated in the surrounding area of Mount Kilimanjaro, making it a popular place for keen adventurers to stay. The area is fed by a constant supply of fresh drinking water from the glaciers of Kilimanjaro. Upon rising at sunrise, the view that greets you from your veranda is that of the snow-capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro. A percentage of income from this campsite goes towards helping village projects such as the local primary school.

Unlike popular tourist resorts on the continent, this campsite does not have electricity. However, your hosts will go out of their way to provide you with an electricity generator if you request it. Ecotourism in a place like this is not difficult to cope with. It’s a way of saying goodbye to mod-cons and living without them for the duration of your stay. It’s a way of detoxing your mind, body and soul in a natural way whilst boosting local commerce at the same time. Your presence in eco destinations is valued by the local people and they will welcome you, cater for your every need and treat you well. You are on holiday after all and you should enjoy it.

 

Rwanda

Rwanda is home to the Virungas, the endangered mountain gorilla. These gentle giants are tolerant to human visitors. So you can feel safe in the presence of the Virungas and your mountain guide. Nyungwe Forest National Park sprawls across the majestic hills of southeast Rwanda. Rich in floral diversity, it encompasses over two hundred different types of tree, as well as being home to humankind’s closest living relative, the chimpanzee.

The Seychelles is one of the pioneers of ecotourism. It has gained worldwide recognition as an environmentally-friendly destination. Described as “a luxurious retreat for the discerning traveller”, the Seychelles is a protected area that strives to preserve the beautiful but fragile ecosystem there. The Seychelles is the epitome of a hidden treasure and a tropical paradise.

It is said that after God had finished creating the world, he had a handful of diamonds left over. And so he decided to create something marvellous just east of Africa. He scattered the remaining diamonds in the ocean and thus the “Seychelles” were born – a divine place that thrives on ecotourism.

Editor's Note

It’s true. Ecotourism is so hot right now. But wait! Before you shell out your life savings, be sure to know what exactly you’re getting yourself into, because “ecotourism” is a buzzword used by heroes and villains alike. Here are a few questions you need to ask yourself before heading out into the wonderful, yet sometimes idealistic world of ecotourism.

“Just what exactly are you paying for?”

Have you ever made a New Year’s resolution to start eating healthy, but had to give up once you realised just how bloody expensive it was to eat healthy? That’s kind of how ecotourism is. After all, couldn’t you just be environmentally responsible on your own? What exactly does this organisation, which you’ve just shelled out your summer savings to, do that costs so much? Read the fine print, because you may be being taken for a ride. Many companies survive on the fact that you know nothing about the area, especially in the developing world.

“Don’t trust the white man”

Alright, alright, the white man isn’t all bad. But whether its consciously or not, western tourists always trust a white tour guide, often more than they should. The white man may even try to persuade you by slithering sweet nothings into your ear, warning you of the trickery of the locals. Again, the white man is not all bad, but keep notice. Just because they have one token “local” on staff doesn’t make them automatically “legit”.

“Do I really get to dance with gorillas?”

No. You don’t really get to dance with gorillas. Seeing an actual gorilla is not even guaranteed, and should you run into one, they’re not likely to ask you in for tea. Sound ridiculous? Some ecotourism companies will conjure up idealistic images that will have you reaching for your wallet, but make sure to ask the right questions of your guide so as to make sure you’re not left disappointed.

“Oh, Guerillas, I thought you meant Gorillas”

Truth be told, Western media does not give as much attention to civil wars in the developing world as you might think. If you can name two or less wars going on in the developing world, its possible you may need to do some more homework, particular to the region you’re considering exploring. It may save your life.

 
Racing through Paris PDF Print

I have something to confess, something that can be a little difficult to say to an audience of strangers; I am a hopeless cycling fan and France in July is the holy land to which we all flock. Whether it is racing in the flats, suffering up the Tourmalet, or sprinting through Monaco, the Tour de France offers a window to all the scenery that France has to offer. With all the controversy surrounding the sport, I can immediately picture the rolling eyes that inevitably follow the very mention of a cycling vacation but let me assure you one thing: as challenging as it is to convince you of its merits, it pales in comparison to the challenge it was of convincing my wife, Julie, to join me. Striking a compromise, we decided to head to Paris for the final weekend to see the battered riders return to the capital and take in some Parisian sights along the way.

Read more...
 
The Real India PDF Print

“You said you wanted to see ‘Real India’, Mister David. Here it is.”

“Well, here’s a bit of the ‘Real America’ too, son (hands Jamal a $100 note).”

Read more...
 
<< Start < Prev 1 2 3 4 Next > End >>

Page 1 of 4